On the recent Amsterdam Herb Walk, we talked a little about using herbs as natural fibre dyes. There are a great number of native herbs which can be used to create beautiful colours. Some are long lasting others tend to fade over time. I love the idea of dyeing wool for knitting projects and have a lovely book on the subject by Jenny Dean. Previously I have collected bags full of onion skins with the intention of dyeing a skein of wool but have never quite got around to it. This week, spurred on by the conversation, I have been looking for something a little more colourful to brew up in the dye vat. There are some very useful blogs online, particularly from the USA. Woad blues and Madder pinks and reds are, I think, amongst the most beautiful. Many of the herbs can be found locally and seeds are available from specialist sources for the more unusual.
Here’s a list of colours and plants, to wet the appetite of those who enjoy creating natural colour. It is adapted from the Blue Castle Fibre Arts website. It is not an exhaustive list and if you hover on the photos I have added, you’ll see some other possibilities. You’ll also see that many of the dyes come from plant roots (e.g. madder) or protected species (e.g. lichens), so not so practical for the urban forager, unless you can grow your own. Another very useful site is the Californian Backyard Dyer blog. There are many more, full of tips about how to set about natural dyeing with herbs. I’d love to hear from anyone who has tried natural dyeing (or wants to) on a small scale and am determined that my next wooly jumper will be hand-dyed from a plant I have grown myself.
NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR RED
Birch (Betula alba) Fresh inner bark
Bed-straw (Gallium boreale) Roots
Common Sorrel (Rumex acetosa) Roots
Dyer’s Woodruff (Asperula tinctoria) Roots
Evergreen Alkanet (Anchusa sempervirens)
Gromwell (Lithospermum arvense)
Lady’s Bedstraw (Gallium verum) Roots
Marsh Potentil (Potentilla Comarum) Roots
Madder (Rubia Tinctorum) Roots
Potentil (Potentilla Tormentilla) Roots
NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR BLUE
Devil’s Bit (Scabiosa succisa) Leaves prepared like woad
Dog’s Mercury (Mercurialis perennis)
Elder (Sambucus nigra) Berries
Indigo (Indigofera tintoria)
Privet (Ligustrum vulgare) Berries with alum and salt
Red bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi)
Sloe (Prunus communis) Fruit
Whortleberry or Blaeberry (Vaccinium Myrtillus) Berries
Woad (Isatis tinctoria)
Yellow Iris (Iris Pseudacorus) Roots
PLANTS THAT DYE YELLOW
Agrimony (Agrimonia Eupatoria)
Ash (Fraxinus excelsior) Fresh inner bark
Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) Stem and root
Birch. Leaves
Bog Asphodel (Narthecium ossifragum)
Bog Myrtle or Sweet Gale (Myrica Gale)
Bracken (Pteris aquilina) Roots, also young tops
Bramble (Rubus fructicosus)
Broom (Sarothammus Scoparius)
Buckthorn (Rhamnus frangula and R. cathartica) Berries and Bark
Common dock (Rumex obtusifolius) Root
Crab Apple (Pyrus Malus) Fresh inner bark
Dyer’s Greenwood (Genista tinctoria) Young shoots and leaves
Gorse (Ulex Europæus) Bark, flowers and young shoots
Heath (Erica vulgaris) With Alum
Hedge stachys (Stachys palustris)
Hop (Humulus lupulus)
Hornbeam (Carpinus Betulus) Bark
Kidney Vetch (Anthyllis Vulnararia)
Ling (Caluna vulgaris)
Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris)
Marsh potentil (Potentilla Comarum)
Meadow Rue (Thalictrum flavum)
Nettle (Urtica) With Alum
Pear, Leaves
Plum
Polygonum Hydropiper
Polygonum Persecaria
Poplar, Leaves
Privet (Ligustrum vulgare) Leaves
St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum)
Sawwort (Serratula tinctoria)
Spindle tree (Euonymus Europæus)
Stinking Willy, or Ragweed (Senecio Jacobæa)
Sundew (Drosera)
Teasel (Dipsacus Sylvestris)
Way-faring tree (Viburnum lantana) Leaves
Weld (Reseda luteola)
Willow, Leaves
Yellow Camomile (Anthemis tinctoria)
Yellow Centaury (Chlora perfoliata)
Yellow Corydal (Corydalis lutea)
NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR GREEN
Elder (Sambucus nigra) Leaves with alum
Flowering reed (Phragmites communis) Flowering tops, with iron
Larch. Bark, with alum
Lily of the valley (Convalaria majalis) Leaves
Nettle (Urtica dioica and U. Urens)
Privet (Ligustrum vulgare) Berries and leaves, with alum
PLANTS THAT DYE BROWN
Alder (Alnus glutinosa) Bark
Birch (Betula alba) Bark
Hop (Humulus lupulus) Stalks give a brownish red colour
Onion, Skins
Larch, Pine needles, collected in Autumn
Oak (Quercus Robur) Bark
Red currants, with alum
Walnut, Root and green husks of nut
Water Lily (Nymphæa alba) Root
Whortleberry (Vaccinium Myrtillus) Young shoots, with nut galls
Dulse (Seaweed)
Lichens
NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR PURPLE
Byrony (Byronia dioica) Berries
Damson, Fruit, with alum
Dandelion (Taraxacum Dens-leonis) Roots
Danewort (Sambucus Ebulus) Berries
Deadly nightshade (Atropa Belladonna)
Elder (Sambucus nigra) Berries, with alum, a violet; with alum and salt, a lilac colour
Sundew (Drosera)
Whortleberry or blaeberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) It contains a blue or purple dye which will dye wool and silk without mordant
NATURAL DYE PLANTS FOR BLACK
Alder (Alnus glutinosa) Bark, with iron
Blackberry (Rubus fruticosus) Young shoots, with salts of iron
Dock (Rumex) Root
Elder (Sambucus nigra) Bark, with iron
Iris (Iris Pseudacorus) Root
Meadowsweet (Spirea Ulmaria)
Oak, Bark and acorns
I’m off to order some Woad and Indigo seed now …